Safety Razor Review

Best Adjustable Safety Razors – Tried, Tested and Reviewed

Out of all the razors I have shaved with, tested, and reviewed for ShavingAdvisor, the adjustable safety razor has been the most challenging.

The challenge mostly comes from the variable settings and design, which is not an issue with standard double-edged safety razors. This is also why they have been so interesting and enjoyable to test and review.

Adjustable safety razors gained some popularity in the 1950s with the Gillette adjustable like the Toggle and Fatboy, and the Merkur Progress (still being made and sold).

Since those earlier days, you’ll find a bunch of quality adjustable razors that have come on the market. However, they are still quite niche which could be a positive as it makes choosing the best adjustable easier.

Here are the top picks from all the adjustable razors I have tested out over a period of at least a month for each model. I needed a month to get familiar with them and to find the best setting for each growth occasion.

1. Merkur Progress – Best Mildest Shave and Suitable for Beginners

The Merkur Progress first came on the market in the 1950s and remains a top-selling adjustable safety razor.

You can see why the Progress has remained one of the best-selling razors when its settings are so user-friendly. It can give users the mildest shave possible on its lowest level, and then the highest setting easily tackles a good few days of heavy growth.

Brief Description & Features –

The Merkur Progress is a German made adjustable razor that’s made with a brass handle, die-casted zinc razor head with galvanized surfaces that are chrome plated. And the hard plastic adjustment knob at the bottom of the handle is white.

Users have a choice of 5 blade gap settings. Setting 1 is milder than most other safety razors on the market and setting 5 (0.94mm) is more aggressive than the mild-medium in aggressiveness razors like the Merkur 34C and Mühle R89.

Blade gaps – Blade gap at level 1 = 0.38 mm (nice and mild) , 2 = 0.56 mm, 3 = 0.71, 4 = 0.84 mm, 5 = 0. 94 mm (aggressive).

The octagonal large scalloped line handle design offers plenty of grip while shaving despite not being quite as non-slip as knurled type handles.

The blades settings are adjusted via the small white knob on the butt of the razor handle that a user aligns with a number and the marker dot.

This is a two-piece double-edged razor that makes blade changing easy enough for any user to get along with.

One of the features I like about this adjustable razor that most others do not have is the bottom safety plate is the indented grooves that I am sure help make shaving strokes better. A little like how open comb razors catch all the hair on each stroke through the teeth or gaps, only a lot less.

Another aspect of the Progress and the other adjustable made by Merkur (Futur) is the large reservoirs under the top plate, which helps shaving debris move through and get rinsed off easily.

Performance & Shaving –

The first time I used the Progress, it felt comfortable, and there was little for me to adjust to. Sometimes, when a razor just feels good right from the start, it’s the right razor for you.

As usual, I spent a month using the razor and testing out the various settings with 2, 3, and 5 days of growth and, of course, a couple of head shaves.

I ended up really liking setting 2 and 3, which is mild-medium on about 2 – 3 days of growth. Setting 1 was too mild, and if I had over 4 days, then setting 4 would do the job well, although my go-to razor on 4 days or more growth is the Mühle R41.

Unexpectedly the Merkur Progress became one of the best adjustable safety razors for me out of the ones I tested and used. I expected the Merkur Futur and Rockwell 6C to be better; however, for me personally –they did not.

Likes & Dislikes

Final Thoughts

If I were to suggest any adjustable safety razor to a person who was new to using these type of razors or was a beginner in wet shaving with safety razors, then the Merkur Progress would be my number 1 recommendation.

Also, if a person was on a tighter budget than others wanted an adjustable this would be a good recommendation that’s priced up at around $62 USD, £45 UK, or €62 EU.

There is no doubt that the Progress is a great piece of kit that’s stood the test of time. Every adjustable razor seeker should most definitely consider it.

Related – If you are torn between choosing the Merkur Progress or Futur then you might want to read up on this comparison article between them both.

2. Merkur Futur – Best Aggressive and Modern Looking Adjustable Razor

There’s no doubt the Merkur Futur is the most contemporary-looking and functioning adjustable safety razor available today. Its slick chrome finish and futuristic design has attracted countless modern day gents into buying this beast of a razor.

Brief Description & Features –

The Merkur Futur, like the Progress is a German made adjustable razor that’s made with a brass handle, die-casted zinc razor head with galvanized surfaces that are chrome plated. There are also satin (Futur 701) and gold chrome (Futur 702) finished models, with the satin offering a little more grip.

The Futur has 6 main settings; however, in total there are 11 because of 5 that are halfway between the main settings. The settings are operated by turning the handle dial and lining up the markings and number.

Now, these settings or blade gaps are much wider and more aggressive than any other high-quality adjustable safety razor. The first setting starts a user off at 1.12 mm.

Blade gaps – The adjustable blade gaps available are 1 = 1.12, 2 = 1.19, 3 = 1.35, 4 = 1.47, 5 = 1.60, 6 = 1.65 mm, and 5 other smaller measurements between 1 – 6.

A quick note, though, on the blade gap. When considering the blade gap and aggressiveness of a razor, it’s not only the gap that makes it more or less aggressive; there are other design factors to consider that change the angle of the blade. Blade gap does play a major or the main part, though.

The Merkur Futur is a two piece razor and comes apart in a unique way for blade replacement. The top just clips off the head, which makes it the easiest of all razors for blade changing, even easier than a butterfly type.

The handle only has an indentation within it to enable users to hold it well while shaving. I would have thought the razor would be slippy in the hand, and it was not, surprisingly. I think the indentation is enough to keep the razor stable in the hand, although others may view this differently and might prefer the satin model that can provide more grip.

I do think this is a beast of a razor that weighs in at 126 grams, and its overall length is 109 mm. Its head is quite bulky and bulkier than many other adjustable safety razors, although all of them are bulky to a degree.

Like the Progress, the Futur has reservoirs where all the runoff of soap and debris flows through when swilling between shaving strokes.

Performance & Shaving –

Unlike other adjustable razors, the Futur does not have a mild setting. The first setting may be milder than the others, but it isn’t mild compared to any other razors.

I tried out various settings and found setting 3 was the highest I needed to use. Setting 1 or 2 was good enough, even for three or so days of growth.

The weight and balance of the Futur suited me really well, and blade changing was easy enough. Rinsing to keep the blade clean between strokes was also done with ease.

I did find the head bulky for under the nose area, although this was not an issue. This is usually overcome by pushing the nose from the tip to the opposite side of shaving.

While I had very good and close shaves from the Merkur Futur I did feel that under any shaving circumstance, I could easily get by with using setting one. This would not justify having a razor with all these settings unless I started to need them.

This kind of razor and its blade gaps are very good for those with hardy skin that can handle any razor, and possibly for those that suffer from razor bumps. However, this might not be suitable for those that get facial spots often or those with sensitive skin.

Likes & Dislikes

Final Thoughts

The Merkur Futur is one of the best-selling adjustable safety razors on the market, and for good reason, its unique design and contemporary appearance make it so.

A Merkur Futur costs start at $62 USD, £62 UK, and €71 EU for the satin (chrome matte) model, which is a lot of razor for the money.

The Futur is not a razor that any person should go out and buy for its excellent modern look. Potential buyers do need to consider the aggressiveness and whether they would make use of the settings and other factors like weight and size.

Without a doubt, for those guys that have what I would call hardy skin, long beard growth, or frequently have outbreaks of razor bumps –then the Futur is well worth looking further into and possibly a great option.

3. Rockwell 6S & 6C – The Interchangeable Razor

The company Rockwell offers something very different from other adjustable razors in terms of how they are adjusted. Rather than twist a handle, these come with interchangeable base plates that offer a different cut setting.

The Rockwell 6S and Rockwell 6C are the same razor, with the only difference being the 6S is more expensive because it’s made from more durable metal, stainless steel. The 6C is a lot cheaper and made with chrome plating.

Related – You can read up more about the differences between these in the Rockwell 6S vs. 6C article here.

Brief Description & Features –

This patented design of Rockwell razors with the 6C and 6S gives us 3 base plates that all have a blade gap setting on each side giving users 6 settings in total.

Blade gaps – R1: 0.20 mm, R2: 0.35 mm, R3: 0.48 mm, R4: 0.61 mm, R5: 0.69 mm, R6: 0.79 mm.

There are some really nice settings on the Rockwell from very mild, medium, and aggressive, although not quite as aggressive as the Merkur Futur or as mild as the first setting of the Merkur Progress, despite the Progress having a smaller blade gap (I did mention above blade gap is not the only factor involved in aggressiveness).

An excellent longevity bonus I see with these is they have no mechanism that could fault after years of use, and buyers get a lifetime warranty.

The handles are a traditional non-slip knurled type that offers maximum grip for users.

Like most adjustable razors, they’re quite hefty, weighing in at 100 g (6C) and 118 g (6S). The overall length of these is 95 mm.

Performance & Shaving –

Having to change the base plate while shaving when needing different settings is more awkward than other adjustable razors, but I soon got used to it. I found once I shaved on one setting that sticking to that setting was the best method.

For some reason, because the Rockwell 6S costs twice the price as the 6C I was expecting it to excel in its performance while shaving when in fact, I preferred the comfort I got from shaving with the chrome-finished 6C version.

I had some great shaves over the two months I tested out these razors and found myself sticking mostly to level 2 and 3 eventually. Level 2 gave me a good head shave.

I noticed these razors could be thoroughly cleaned. They come apart in three pieces, and there is no mechanism to get in the way of cleaning, which makes them easy to clean up like brand new.

There is some blade overhang at both sides of the blade head that I have seen some users mention and I noticed. It doesn’t seem to cause a problem, but some guys may not like that.

Likes & Dislikes

Final Thoughts

Rockwell razors are quite different from any of the other adjustable types. It’s more of an interchangeable razor that attracts some guys that do not want a razor with a mechanism but do want the option of using various blade-level settings from one razor.

The settings offered are from very mild to aggressive, which means most people will find a setting or two that they could shave with.

The Rockwell 6S has a price tag of $100 USD, and the 6C costs $50 USD. Both are well worth the money.

I do see this as a razor a couple could also share. For example, a guy could use setting 3 and 4 for his face, and his partner could shave her legs on setting 1, and they could keep the blade and heads separate.

If I wanted a razor for using more than one setting in a shaving session, I probably wouldn’t go for the Rockwell. Other adjustable razors are much easier to adjust quickly.

4. Rex Ambassador – Probably The Best Modern Adjustable Razor A Man Could Use

The Rex Ambassador is one of the priciest modern-day adjustable razors, $249.00 USD (£239 GBP – €279 EU) of today. It is also one of the best and, for some guys –most definitely the best.

Brief Description & Features –

The Rex Ambassador is the perfect combo of modern and traditional that’s made in the USA. It’s what we could call a vintaged razor.

Made from stainless steel for strength and durability, the Rex, with its unique old Gillette style serial number, is made to last that’s guaranteed for a lifetime. This is a razor I could see being passed down through the generations.

While it is made from stainless steel the brushed finish gives it just as a good look as the chrome-plated types, although it’s not quite as shiny. They are very similar looking to the Feather safety razors.

The head on the Ambassador is low profile which makes shaving under the nose and sideburns easier, and the bottom lip of the head narrows, which helps shaving any shapes around beards or a mustache easier work.

This razor has six main settings and a setting between each of the main ones, giving 11 in total, from mild to highly aggressive.

Blade Gap Range – 0.012″ – 0.051″ (0.3048mm – 1.2954mm).

I found the blade gap options much more impressive than any other adjustable. 0.30mm is smaller than most safety razors, and 1.29mm at setting 6 gives a user a setting like the Merkur Futur.

The Rex Ambassador is a stubby kind of razor that is only 88.7 mm in length, and the handle is deeply knurled, providing a maximum non-slip grip. While a small handle is ideal for some gents, others prefer long-handled types, that’s worth noting.

This two-piece razor adjusts without needing to touch the head. It adjusts via a dial underneath the head which ensures safety for the user.

Performance & Shaving –

After spending all that dosh on the Rex Ambassador, it was going to have to be more than just a good razor –it was going to have to impress me.

The Rex did impress me………

As soon as I got hold of this razor I could feel it was high quality and loved the weight and the stubby handle that’s like the Merkur 34c in ways.

As per usual with adjustable razors, it took a few shaves to get used to it and find the best settings based on the present growth.

Setting six was too much for me, but I can see how someone with tough skin and thick growth could get along well with that setting. I seemed to prefer anything between settings 2 – and 4, but I could also get a good shave from setting 1.

The Rex Ambassador was better than any other adjustable I had used and even beat my favorite Merkur Progress in terms of closeness and comfort of shaving.

The head of this razor beats all other’s hands down with its low profile and narrowed bottom lip. Sideburns shaved perfectly and under the nose easy.

Likes & Dislikes

Final Thoughts

Anyone who has used a number of DE razors and tried any other adjustable is likely to find the Rex Ambassador the best modern adjustable they’ve used.

Those guys who are new to wet shaving or maybe never tried out an adjustable might not as yet want to invest in this razor. The first reason is they may not appreciate the fine differences, and the other is that it is a lot of money to fork out if a user does not get full use of the settings.

Probably the best modern adjustable safety razor a man could use!

5. Parker Variant – Another Adjustable Suitable for Beginners

The Parker Variant was not going to join the best adjustable safety razor club, and then after a month of putting its settings through its paces, it became a very good option with a lot to compare with the Merkur Progress.

The Variant has a very similar top as the Progress, and it dials in the settings and releases the top cap in the same manner. However, some users prefer the matte finish and find the adjustable knob better looking, and the knurled handle more suitable with the Parker.

Brief Description & Features –

The Parker Variant offers five adjustable settings and five others if you include the halfway settings. These settings start from very mild to quite aggressive but not as aggressive or as wide a blade gap as the Merkur Futur.

There’s a setting for every kind of user, from those new to wet shaving, with safety razors for experienced guys. The beginner and mildness aspect of the Parker Variant is something I like.

This is a two-part razor that weighs 110g, has an overall length of 103mm, and a handle length of 90mm. That’s quite weighty and lengthy, which many users favor, while some prefer a shorter or stubby kind of handle length.

The handle is knurled and offers plenty of non-slip grip, and just like the Merkur Progress, you’ll find markings to align the bottom and top part of the head.

A design feature that I like about this razor and other adjustable models is the large drainage sections that make rinsing while shaving keep the razor very clean easily.

Performance & Shaving –

Expectations were low with how the variant would perform after spending a month of shaving with the Rolls Royce of adjustable razors, the Rex Ambassador. It exceeded my expectations, and I was very pleased.

I did my usual tests with 2 – 3 – 4 or more days of growth and used all the various settings –well, the five of them, and not the settings between settings. There was a nice mildness to the lower settings ( 1 and 2), although setting 1 was a bit too mild, and then setting 5 was too aggressive and just didn’t feel right.

I found I settled well into setting 2 and 3, and I had some great head shaves on setting 2. Head shaving always seems easier with a safety razor that has a longer handle which the Variant has.

What I never got to grips with was the bulky head which did not work well with shaving under the nose and the curves over the bottom of my chin. I did not get this with the Merkur Progress and realized the shorter handle on the Progress helps make this easier (this is just my experience, and others may not have this issue).

The adjustable mechanism works like a charm that’s nice and easy to rotate, and blade replacement is easy enough too.

Likes & Dislikes

Final Thoughts

The Parker Variant would be my second recommendation for those new to wet shaving or for those looking for their first adjustable that offers good mild settings as well as aggressive. If someone needs more length than what the Merkur Progress (the 1st recommendation new to adjustable razors) offers and prefers a knurled handle with a matte finish coating, then the variant would be the 1st choice.

This razor is priced at around $57.00 USD (£49.99 GBP – 75.50€ EU) which is in the affordable budget range, and buyers get a 12-month warranty if any faults appear.

That just about covers it for the Best Adjustable Safety Razors category for now. If any other great razor options come along to join, they will be here.

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