Merkur Progress Review – Going strong since the 1950’s
Merkur Progress Safety Razor
The Merkur Progress is a classic adjustable razor manufactured by the German company Merkur-DOVO. Its settings begin nicely mild and then build up in aggression throughout five settings. It’s still one of my favorite adjustable razors!
Pros
Five great mild to aggressive adjustable options
Option of a short and long handle (500 or 510 model)
A nice bit of weight to it
A two-part razor makes it easy to change the blade
Suitable for beginners and experienced gentlemen
Attractive and practical handle grip
Good drainage slats
Cons
The bottom handle dial knob is unattractive
The razor head is bulky for shaving under the nose
Blade adjustment is slightly clunky
The Merkur Progress is a German-crafted safety razor that’s adjustable and offers various blade settings of aggressiveness.
After using and reviewing the Merkur Futur adjustable razor, I was eager to try the Progress model from Merkur. The Progress was one of the first adjustable-blade models of its kind, made by Merkur in the 1950s.
The Progress also holds a spot in the Best Merkur Razor recommendations article, as it remains one of my top three adjustable razors, particularly for its mild settings.
Adjustable razors will not suit everyone’s needs and can be a wasted purchase if more than one setting is not required and used. This is often discovered after using an adjustable setting a few times and then settling on one setting level.
However…….
Others may find their beard growth type, varying hair growth patterns, or different frequencies of shaving days make great use of the settings, which makes an adjustable like the Progress a perfect match.
Let’s take a closer look at the safety razor and see how it fares, as well as who it suits best.
Description & Features
- Materials and Finish – Brass handle, die-casted zinc razor head, galvanized surfaces, bright chrome-plated.
- Double edged – You can shave with this razor on both sides and use double-edged razors within the head. DE razors are the most commonly used.
- Closed comb – The bottom section of the razor head has a row of grooves, and underneath them it’s flat – a safety bar. These closed-comb types of razors are safer and easier to use than open combs.
- Two parts – The Merkur Progress is taken apart – with the bottom end of the handle being screwed off, which removes the top of the head only.
- Blade replacement – As mentioned, a user unscrews the head from the handle and the bottom section of the head. When tightening the head, the user must align an arrow and a line, which ensures the blade is aligned correctly.
- Handle – The handle features an octagonal, large, scalloped line-type design that aids users in holding the razor while shaving. It’s one of the best handles for grip, although it isn’t as grip-friendly as knurled-type razor handles. Unfortunately, Merkur does not offer any other handle types; however, keeping it simple in this manner is perhaps best, as adjustable razors are complex enough on their own. Two handle sizes are available: the standard (500) and the long (510).
- Weight & Length – Overall Length: 85 mm standard and 105 mm long. Weight: 90 grams standard and 102 grams long.
- Blade gaps – Blade gap at level 1 = 0.38 mm (nice and mild), 2 = 0.56 mm, 3 = 0.71, 4 = 0.84 mm, 5 = 0. 94 mm (aggressive).
Merkur Progress 500 vs 510 Differences
The difference between the 500 and 510 is solely in handle size, which affects the length, weight, and cost (the cost is slightly higher for the 510 long).
- Merkur Progress 500 (short/standard handle) – Overall length: 85 mm, Handle length: 76mm, Weight: 92g
- Merkur Progress 510 (long handle) – Overall length: 105 mm Handle length: 95mm Weight: 100g
It seems the 510 long is the most popular purchase.
Which handle is best?
The long-handled type is suited for those with larger hands. Although some users, even with big hands, prefer the standard handle.
In my experience, the standard handle razors are more comfortable when shaving the tricky bits under the nose, the chin, and near the Adam’s apple, but then a long handle works well with normal shaving strokes. It is more about what works best and personal preference than any definitive answer.
Shaving Experiences
I’m glad you asked!
After using the Merkur Futur adjustable for a while and testing it as much as possible, I was eager to try out the Progress. The Futur is a great razor; however, it’s very aggressive, and I knew the Progress model has milder settings, which I would like.
I started shaving and did the first pass using level 3 of the razor. This is a very close match to the blade gap of a Merkur 34C, which was really nice and comfortable, that I love.
I did try above level 4, and it’s too aggressive for me and unnecessary. I don’t have coarse hair, but my neck area is easily irritated due to variable hair growth patterns.
I did another pass (shave) after getting lathered up again on level 2 and then another on level 1. Level 1 and 2 is very mild compared to most other safety razors, and 1 is too mild.
Between levels 2 and 4 suits me just fine, but I could quite easily just stick with Level 2 or 3.
I got an excellent, smooth shave and enjoyed tinkering around with the settings.
Handle Grip
I’ve noticed some users comment within reviews that the handle can be slippery. However, I had no issue with it at all. Knurled handles do offer more grip; however, some users find these octagonal, large, scalloped-line design types slightly more attractive, and the design helps users hold them well enough (in my experience).
Weight and Balance
Weight and balance are crucial when using a safety razor. The Merkur Progress standard weighs in at 92g, which is a good weight that leans on the heavy side of razors when compared to others.
When holding this razor at around 30-40 degrees loosely in the hand, the head balances perfectly against the skin, encouraging the razor to do the work rather than relying on hand pressure. Merkur razors all seem to strike a great balance.
Look & Design
The razor may not be the most aesthetically pleasing to some users, with its whitish-colored knob for adjusting the end of the handle and its large head, but it’s very functional. The chrome finish makes it look attractive, though.
One aspect I love about this razor and the Merkur Futur is the large reservoirs that help with drainage under the blade. Merkur improved this feature on the Futur by adding drainage gaps at the bottom of the head.
The head is bulky because of the blade adjustment feature. Some men might find shaving the area under the nose tricky, but this can be easily overcome by moving the nose slightly to one side.
Although there is a mechanism and spring inside that makes it an adjustable razor, I have not found any reports stating it became faulty or broke, even after many years of use.
As with all Merker safety razors, you can feel and see the high standards of craftsmanship that go into them, and this one has been a top seller since the 1950s for good reason.
Ease of Use
I did find the Progress very easy to use while shaving, although the knob twisting is a bit clunky, and I can hear the spring inside, which I suppose is normal.
Changing the blade requires a user to unscrew the handle, place the blade, and tighten it up while aligning the markings.
Aggressiveness – Variable (mild- medium – aggressive)
The Progress certainly does provide a variable blade height for tweaking its aggressiveness. Unlike other adjustable safety razors, the extra mildness levels make this razor suitable for any user, including beginners.
Value for Money
While these cost an extra $20 (£15) more than say a Merkur 34c, it comes with more functions, and more craftsmanship has to be put into these.
At around $62 (£45) it’s a good buy and worth the bit of extra investment if the adjustments are required.
Merkur Progress 570 – It is worth mentioning the 570 model. This is the standard razor that comes with a travel case, which is slightly more expensive.
Final Thoughts – Who Is It Best Suited For?
Adjustable razors, such as the Merkur Progress, take a little more time to get used to than other safety razors. There is a learning curve involved in finding the right settings, and a slight learning curve is also associated with blade replacement.
As mentioned in other adjustable safety razors reviews I have done, to get the most out of a user’s investment, they need to at least have a need to use two settings or more; otherwise, a standard DE razor will do the job just as well.
This could be used by anyone, from a person new to wet shaving with safety razors to advanced users. One benefit I could see a beginner getting from using this razor is that they would know the exact level of a blade that suits them best after trying out various settings.
If you’re new to using safety razors, go slowly to prevent cutting yourself. Try level 1 first and work your way up.
I don’t have any notable complaints.
